Find out what you want to know about cycling in Calgary.
So you want to try that cycling thing you heard so much about. It saves gas money, improves traffic congestion and air quality, and on top of that, it's healthy. What do you need to do?
Do you or someone you know have an unused bike lying around in the garage? If it fits you, and it is or can be made ridable, it'll be a good entry-level bike, and later on you might want to convert it into a winter bike. Bike sizing has turned into a science, and if you're going to spend serious money on a bicycle you should make sure you get your bike dealer to help you pick the right size. But for now, all you have to do is check if the stand over height is about right: if you stand astride over the bicycle, there should be between 5 and 8 cm between the top tube and your crotch. If you're dealing with a step-through (women's) bicycle, stand over height doesn't apply. For all kinds of bicycle you should make sure that the seat can be adjusted to the proper height. To figure this out, sit straight on the seat, heel on the pedal, and put the pedal in the down position so that the crank arm is parallel to the seat tube. Your leg should be completely straight. If you can't reach the pedal with your heel even if the seat is all the way down, the bike is too big for you. If you have to pull the seat post out too far, it is too small. Of course, it's also important that you can comfortably reach the handlebar!
If you don't already have access to a bike, and you can't or don't want to buy a new bike, you have options:
Before you take your bike on the pathway or the street, you should make sure it's safe to ride. First of all, it should (still) fit you (see above). But it should also be in decent shape mechanically. You don't want the brakes to give out or the chain to fall off, and it should satisfy the legal requirements. Your best bet is to take it to a local bike shop and have it tuned up. That costs on the order of $50, and you'll be safe in the knowledge that a trained professional has made sure your bike is in good working order. By law, your bike needs a red rear reflector, a working brake, and a bell. If you are going to ride between sunset and sunrise, you also need a set of lights (front and rear). You might want to consider getting a helmet and cycling gloves.
Take the time to familiarize yourself with Alberta cycling laws and safety tips, for instance on our Laws and Safety page. Now you're ready! Use the resources listed on the Pathways and Maps page to plan your route. Maybe you want to start with Calgary's multi-use pathways before you graduate to riding in traffic. Ask in the Bike Riding in Calgary forums about good routes that match your level of confidence. Many Bike Calgary members are comfortable riding on busy streets, but they also know the neighborhoods and shortcuts and can tell you which routes have lower traffic, where to watch out, and how to make the best use of the pathway system. Post in the Bike Buddy forum, and perhaps someone has a similar route and can show you the ropes.
If you'd like to get more comfortable riding on Calgary's streets, take our Urban Cycling Skills course.
Consider taking Bike Calgary's one-day Urban Cycling Skills course!
There are many websites and books that deal with bicycle safety and tips for safe riding in traffic (see the Reading Room). For a good introduction that is tailored to the situation in Calgary, start with the City's Cycling Safety Handbook. Download it, and read it. Here's the short of it:
You should have functioning equipment. Nothing's going to help you if your brake cables tear or your chain falls off at a critical moment. So make sure your bike is well maintained, check your brakes and tire pressure before you leave, and if something doesn't feel right, fix it right away (or have it fixed by a professional). The single most important safety aspect when it comes to cycling in traffic is visibility. When you're riding at night or in low visibility conditions (rain, snow, low light), it is imperative that you have functioning lights. The law requires you to have at least one (but not more than two) white headlights and a red rear light, as well as a red rear reflector. Reflectors in the spokes and on the pedals aren't a bad idea, either. Reflective strips on clothing, packs, ankle straps, are also useful. But remember that on the pathway, there's no windshield between your blaring flashing headlight and other pathway users—so be courteous and turn your lights to steady mode and angle them down. It's a good idea to wear a cycling helmet. It's not required by law, unless you're under 18. Make sure your helmet fits you properly and meets industry safety standards.
It is probably obvious that you are safer on quiet neighborhood streets than on busy streets, safer on pathways and in bike lanes than when riding in traffic. Check the route maps to find a suitable cycling route for you. When you are riding in traffic, go in a straight line (no dodging between parked cars) and keep to the right as much as possible but:
Famously, Calgary has one of North America's most extensive pathway networks in North America. Pathways are a relatively safe place to ride a bicycle, as there are no cars (except where pathways cross roads) and pathways are also never adjacent to building entrances or parked cars. Because pathways are, for the most part, shared with pedestrians (and skaters and runners), you still must exercise caution when using them, especially at night. You should be especially careful when crossing a roadway. On a bicycle, you do not automatically have the right of way over vehicles on the road you're crossing, unlike as a pedestrian. If you dismount and walk your bike across an intersection, you're a pedestrian, and have the right of way. Note that speed on pathways is limited to 20 km/h.
On the other hand, it is in general dangerous to ride your bicycle on sidewalks, especially where sidewalks cross streets at every block, there are driveways, building entrances, and parked cars. You're liable to hit or get run into by a pedestrian, get hit by an opening car door on the passenger side, or get hit by a car if you bike through crosswalks (drivers can't see you behind the parked cars, won't expect a fast approaching bicycle, and you'll likely be in their blind spot if they turn right across the crosswalk). A very high percentage of car-bike collisions happen at intersections when the cyclist is coming off the sidewalk. In Calgary, it's illegal to ride a bicycle on a sidewalk (unless it's a designated pathway, you are under 14 years old, are delivering newspapers, or are a Peace Officer on duty).
How do you tell if something's a pathway (ok to ride) or a sidewalk that's not a pathway (not ok to ride)? It's not always obvious, but:
Always obey posted signs, speed limits, and again: be very careful at intersections: motorists won't look for you, sometimes won't be able to see you, and you do not automatically have the right of way in crosswalks like pedestrians do.
Intersections are where most collisions happen. The most common types of collisions are the "left cross" and the "right hook". In "right hook" collisions, a cyclist gets hit by a car turning right; in "left cross" collisions by a motorist making a left turn across the cyclist's path. To avoid them:
Cycling on pathways is subject to very much the same rules as regular traffic. You should:
There are numerous resources online to learn about cycling safety, whether you're riding on shared pathways or on the roads.
The regulations governing cycling in Calgary are:
According to these rules and regulations,
A motor vehicle, power bicycle and bicycle must have a horn or bell.
(1) No person who is less than 18 years old shall operate or ride as a passenger on a bicycle unless that person is properly wearing a safety helmet.
(2) A parent or guardian of a person who is less than 18 years old shall not authorize or knowingly permit the person to operate or ride as a passenger on a bicycle unless that person is properly wearing a safety helmet.
(3) No person shall operate a bicycle on which a passenger who is less than 18 years old is riding unless the passenger is properly wearing a safety helmet.
(1) For the purposes of section 111, a safety helmet intended for the use of an operator or a passenger of a bicycle or worn by an operator or a passenger of a bicycle must meet the standards adopted under subsection (2) in effect on the date on which it was manufactured.
(2) The following are adopted and apply to safety helmets in accordance with subsection (1):
(a) Canadian Standards Association Standard CAN/CSA D113.2‑M89 (Cycling Helmets);
(b) Consumer Product Safety Commission, Title 16 Code of U.S. Federal Regulations Part 1203 (Safety Standard for Bicycle Helmets);
(c) Snell Memorial Foundation Standard B‑90 (1990 Standard for Protective Headgear for Use with Bicycles);
(d) Snell Memorial Foundation Standard B‑95 (1995 Standard for Protective Headgear for Use with Bicycles);
(e) Snell Memorial Foundation Standard N‑94 (1994 Standard for Protective Headgear in Non‑motorized Sports);
(f) American Society for Testing and Materials ASTM F1447‑97 (Standard Specification for Protective Headgear Used in Bicycling);
(g) CEN European Standard EN 1078 (Helmets for Pedal Cyclists and for Users of Skateboards and Roller Skates, February 1997);
(h) British Standards Institute BS 6863:1989 (British Standard Specification for Pedal Cyclists Helmets);
(i) Standards Australia/Standards New Zealand 2063‑1996 (Pedal Cycle Helmets);
(j) American National Standards Institute ANSI Z90.4‑1984 (American National Standard for Protective Headgear for Bicyclists).
(3) A safety helmet must have the mark of one of the organizations referred to in subsection (2), or the manufacturer, indicating that the helmet met one or more of the specifications required on its date of manufacture.
(4) A safety helmet must be constructed so that it (a) has a hard, smooth outer shell, and (b) is capable of absorbing energy on impact.
(5) A safety helmet must be designed and equipped so that it is securely attached to a strap that is to be fastened around the chin of the person wearing the safety helmet.
(6) A safety helmet must be free of damage or modification that would reduce its effectiveness.
(7) No person shall buy, sell or offer for sale a safety helmet intended for the use of operators or passengers of bicycles who are less than 18 years old unless it complies with subsections (1) to (6).
(1) A person shall not ride a bicycle at nighttime unless the bicycle has the following:
(a) at least one headlamp but not more than 2 headlamps;
(b) at least one red tail lamp;
(c) at least one red reflector mounted on the rear.
(1)(c) “bicycle” includes any cycle propelled by human muscular power on which a person may ride regardless of the number of wheels that the cycle may have;
(1) At any time on a highway during the period of night time or when, due to insufficient light or unfavourable atmospheric conditions, objects are not clearly discernible on the highway at a distance of at least 150 metres ahead, a person shall not do any of the following:
(b) have a bicycle in motion on the highway unless the lamp or lamps with which the bicycle is required to be equipped are alight;
(f) have a cycle on the highway unless the cycle is equipped with one reflector that is located at the rear of the cycle and that is (i) of a type required by the Vehicle Equipment Regulation, and (ii) affixed as required by the Vehicle Equipment Regulation so as to reflect the lights of any motor vehicle approaching from the rear.
Unless the context otherwise requires, a person who is operating a cycle on a highway has all the rights and is subject to all the duties of a person driving a motor vehicle under Part 1 and this Part and Division 2 of Part 5 of the Act.
(1) A person who is operating a cycle on a highway
(a) shall keep both hands on the handlebars of the cycle, except when making a signal in accordance with this Regulation or shifting the gears of the cycle,
(b) shall keep both feet on the pedals or foot rests of the cycle other than when stopped,
(c) shall not ride other than on or astride a regular seat of the cycle, and
(d) shall not use the cycle to carry more persons at one time than the number for which the cycle is designed and equipped.
(2) A person who is operating a cycle, other than a motor cycle, on a highway shall operate the cycle as near as practicable to the right curb or edge of the roadway unless that person is in the process of making a left turn with the cycle.
(3) Notwithstanding subsection (2), a person who is operating a cycle, other than a motor cycle, on a one-way highway in an urban area shall ride as near as practicable to either curb or edge of the roadway unless that person is in the process of crossing from one curb or edge of the roadway to the opposite curb or edge of the roadway.
(4) Notwithstanding subsection (2), a person who is operating a cycle, other than a motorcycle, on a highway that has shoulders
(a) in the case of a highway that has paved shoulders, shall operate the cycle on the right shoulder, and
(b) in the case of a highway that does not have paved shoulders, shall operate the cycle as far to the right of the roadway as practicable, unless that person is in the process of making a left turn.
(5) A person who is riding as a passenger on a cycle
(a) shall not ride other than on a regular seat of the cycle that is designed to be used by a passenger, and
(b) shall keep both feet on the foot rests provided for the use of the passenger riding on the seat.
A person who is operating a cycle on a highway in the same direction in the same traffic lane, except when overtaking and passing another cycle,
(a) shall not operate the cycle adjacent to another cycle travelling in the same direction, and
(b) in the case of a cycle other than a motor cycle, where more than one cycle is travelling in the near vicinity of and in the same direction as another cycle, shall operate the cycle directly in line with and to the rear or front of the other cycle.
(3) Where a vehicle is on a highway, the person driving the vehicle shall not knowingly draw or tow by that vehicle any person riding a sled, toboggan, skis, cycle, skateboard or similar thing.
(4) Where a vehicle is on a highway, a person shall not directly or indirectly become or remain attached to that vehicle by means of a device or any part of that person’s body and (a) be pushed or towed by the vehicle, or (b) ride a sled, toboggan, skis, cycle, skateboard or similar thing that is being pushed or towed by the vehicle.
(1) A person shall not open a door of a vehicle unless it is reasonably safe to do so.
(2) A person shall not leave a door open on a vehicle where it may constitute a hazard to moving traffic.
(o) "Pathway" means a multi-purpose thoroughfare controlled by The City and set aside for use by pedestrians, Cyclists and Persons using Wheeled Conveyances, which is improved by asphalt, concrete or brick, whether or not it is located in a Park, and includes any bridge or structure with which it is contiguous;
(x) "Wheeled Conveyance" means roller-skates, in-line-skates, roller skis, skateboards, scooters, motorized 3 or 4 wheeled scooters designed for Persons with infirmities, motorized wheelchairs, or other similar devices but excludes Bicycles, Vehicles or any other motorized scooters.
(1) Unless otherwise authorized pursuant to this Bylaw, no Person in a Park shall use or ride:
(a) a Bicycle except on a Pathway, Trail or Park Roadway; or
(b) any Wheeled Conveyance except on a Pathway or Trail.
(2) It shall not be an offence to use or ride any Wheeled Conveyance to cross a Park Roadway where a Pathway or Trail crosses that Park Roadway.
(1) No Person shall ride a Bicycle or use a Wheeled Conveyance or Vehicle on a Park Roadway, Pathway or Trail which is closed, or where such use is prohibited.
Unless otherwise posted no Person shall operate a Bicycle or Wheeled Conveyance in a Park at a speed greater than twenty (20) kilometers per hour.
No Person using a Pathway or Trail shall travel at a rate of speed that is unreasonable having regard to all the circumstances, including but not limited to:
(a) the nature, condition and use of the Pathway or Trail;
(b) any conditions, including weather, that may affect visibility; and
(c) the volume and type of traffic on the Pathway or Trail regardless of whether that person is travelling at the applicable speed limit.
When entering onto a Pathway from other than a Park Roadway, Pathway or Trail, all Persons shall yield the right of way to users already on the Pathway.
When approaching an uncontrolled intersection between a Park Roadway, Pathway or Trail a Person using a Park Roadway, Pathway or Trail shall:
(a) when on a Trail, yield the right of way to users on a Pathway or Park Roadway;
(b) when on a Pathway, yield the right of way to users on a Park Roadway;
(c) when on a Pathway, approaching an uncontrolled intersection with another Pathway, yield the right of way to the user on the right; and
(d) when on a Trail, approaching an uncontrolled intersection with another Trail, yield the right of way to the user on the right.
A Person using a Pathway or Trail shall:
(a) exercise due care and attention to avoid colliding with any other user;
(b) exercise reasonable consideration for any other user;
(c) give an audible signal by voice, bell or other signaling device before overtaking another user; and
(d) ensure they are visible to other users.
No Person using a Pathway shall travel left of the Centre Line of a Pathway except:
(a) when overtaking another Person travelling in the same direction;
(b) when the Pathway to the right of the Centre Line is obstructed;
(c) when the Pathway to the right of the Centre Line is closed to Pathway users; or
(d) when turning left off the Pathway.
No Person using a Pathway shall pass or attempt to pass another Person travelling in
the same direction when:
(a) it is unsafe to do so;
(b) on a curve in the Pathway, when that Person’s vision is obstructed;
(c) Pathway lanes are separated by double solid lines; or
(d) passing beneath a bridge or through a tunnel of any kind.
No Person overtaking another Person on a Pathway shall return to the right-side of the Centre Line of a Pathway until it is safe to do so.
No Person shall operate a Bicycle or Wheeled Conveyance on a Pathway, Trail or Park Roadway in a manner that is unsafe to that Person or other people in the Park.
No Person riding a Bicycle or Wheeled Conveyance on a Park Roadway, Pathway or Trail shall use the Bicycle or Wheeled Conveyance to carry more Persons than the number for which it is designed and equipped.
No Person operating or riding as a passenger on a Bicycle or Wheeled Conveyance on a Park Roadway, Pathway or Trail shall:
(a) hold onto; or
(b) be attached to;
any other Bicycle, Wheeled Conveyance or Vehicle unless that person is riding in a child or animal trailer designed for such use.
A Bicycle operated on a Pathway, or Trail shall be equipped with:
(a) at least one (1) working brake;
(b) a horn, bell or other signaling device; and
(c) if operated during the period beginning one half hour (1/2) after sunset and ending one half hour (1/2) before sunrise;
(i) at least one (1) functioning headlamp with a lens and bulb which are clear in colour;
(ii) at least one (1) functioning red tail lamp which is capable of emitting a flashing or steady mode; and
(iii) at least one (1) red reflector mounted at the rear.
No Person shall operate a Bicycle or In-line skates on a Pathway or Trail during the period commencing one half hour (1/2) after sunset and ending one half (1/2) hour before sunrise unless:
(a) in the case of a Bicycle, the headlamp, tail-lamp and reflector required pursuant to Section 44 are activated; or
(b) in the case of a person operating in-line skates, a device or devices which emit either a clear or red light, in either a flashing or steady mode, is affixed to the person’s body or clothing and is both activated and visible from both the front and the rear of the Person.
(1) Where an Officer observes a Person using or operating a Bicycle or Wheeled Conveyance in contravention of this Bylaw, the Officer may impound the Bicycle or Wheeled Conveyance for a period not exceeding 60 days.
(2) Where a Bicycle or Wheeled Conveyance has been impounded by an Officer, the owner or operator of such Bicycle shall, aside from any fine or penalty to which the owner may be subject, be liable for all reasonable costs incidental to the impounding.
30. Ride a Bicycle or Wheeled Conveyance off a Pathway or Trail or Park Roadway $ 100.00
31. Ride where closed or prohibited $ 100.00 32. Speed on a Pathway or Trail $ 50.00
33. Unsafe Speed on Pathway or Trail $ 100.00
34. Failure to yield right of way when entering Pathway $ 100.00
35. Failure to yield right of way at uncontrolled intersections $ 100.00
36. Unsafe activities on Pathway $ 100.00
37. Travelling left of Centre Line of Pathway where prohibited $ 100.00
38. Unsafe passing on Pathway $ 100.00
39. Unsafe return to right side of Pathway $ 100.00
40. Cyclist or in-line skater, unsafe operation $ 100.00
41. Use of poles on a Pathway $ 100.00
42. Riding with more passengers than intended (double riding) $ 50.00
43. Towing $ 50.00 44. Improperly equipped Bicycle $ 50.00
45. Operate at night without lights $ 100.00
(1) (q.2) “High Occupancy Vehicle” means a bus (whether or not operated by Calgary Transit), any motor vehicle with two or more occupants (excluding an unborn child), or a bicycle;
(2) Notwithstanding anything to the contrary contained in this or any Bylaw, a Peace Officer may operate a bicycle while on duty on any mall, sidewalk, footpath, walkway, boulevard, pathway or other public place where the use of bicycles by the general public is prohibited or restricted.
(1) Unless the context otherwise requires, a person operating a bicycle on a highway has all the rights and is subject to all the duties that any vehicle operator has under this Bylaw.
(2) Notwithstanding Subsection (1) of Section 42, a carrier of a newspaper may ride a bicycle on a sidewalk, or boulevard: (a) if he is delivering copies of the newspaper at the time; and (b) if the bicycle does not interfere with other persons proceeding by foot on the said sidewalk, footpath or boulevard.
(3) Notwithstanding Subsection (2), the Traffic Engineer may designate those portions of sidewalks, or boulevards where bicycles may be ridden by other persons who are not carriers of newspapers delivering copies thereof.
(4) Where this Bylaw permits a person to ride a bicycle or use in-line skates on any sidewalk, where pedestrians are also allowed, the person shall ride the bicycle or use the in-line skates only in such a way that it will not interfere with a pedestrian lawfully on or using such sidewalk.
(5) No person shall ride a bicycle on Deerfoot Trail, being a highway in the City of Calgary, between 64th Avenue North and Marquis of Lorne Trail (commonly referred to as Highway 22X).
(1) Except as otherwise provided in this Section, a person shall not:
(c) ride a bicycle;
(e) draw, push, propel or ride a wheeled vehicle of any description other than a bicycle on or along a sidewalk, or boulevard.
(2) Notwithstanding the provisions of Subsection (1), a person may draw, push or propel:
(c) a child’s tricycle; or
(d) a child’s bicycle operated by an individual under the age of Fourteen (14) years;
on or along a sidewalk in such a way as to not interfere with the other pedestrians using the sidewalk.
(1) A Peace Officer may seize and impound for a period not exceeding 60 (sixty) days any bicycle, skateboard, or other similar device used or operated in contravention of this Bylaw.
(2) Where a bicycle, skateboard, or other similar device has been seized and impounded by a Peace Officer as provided for in this Bylaw, the owner or operator of such bicycle, skateboard, or other similar device shall, aside from any fine or penalty to which he may be subject, be liable for all reasonable costs incidental to the seizure and impounding of the bicycle, skateboard, or other similar device.
41 Bicycles $25.00
42, 44 Use of Sidewalk or Street $25.00
The Department of Transportation of the Government of Alberta collects statistics on traffic collisions. There are annual reports, as well as a more in-depth report on collisions involving bicycles (2004-2008). The numbers reported there are for all of Alberta; overview statistics for Calgary and Edmonton are included at the end of this post. The following summary is based on the figures reported there.
In the years covered by the bicycle study (2004-2008), a total of 2,174 people died in traffic collisions. 1.4% were bicyclists, 6.9% were motorcyclists, 10.4% were pedestrians, and 76.2% were drivers or passengers. Of the 121,262 people injured in that same timeframe, 2.4% were bicyclists, 3.2% were motorcyclists, 5.2% were pedestrians, and 87.4% were drivers or passengers.
In 2004-2008, most bicycle collisions (almost 40%) occurred during afternoon rush hour (3pm-7pm).
The majority of collisions involving a bicyclist for all severities occur in urban locations. For bicycle involved collisions on rural numbered highways and other rural roads, bicycle involved fatal collisions make up a bigger proportion of the total bicycle involved collisions on those highways and roads compared to the proportion of bicycle involved urban fatal collisions to total bicycle involved urban collisions. In 2004-08, only 2% of all collisions involving bicycles occurred on rural highways and roads, but almost half of the cyclist fatalities.
5.0% of cyclists involved in collisions were found to have been drinking or be alcohol impaired, and 15.4% of cyclists in fatal collisions. The statistics do not include the number of alcohol impaired drivers in collisions involving bicycles. However, for the same period (2004-2008), 5.3% of drivers (excluding bicyclists) in all casualty collisions, and 21.2% of those involved in fatal collisions had been drinking.
For 2004-2008, 59.7% of drivers involved in casualty collisions with bicyclists were recorded as driving properly, compared with 37.4% of cyclists. In fatal collisions, however, only 45.5% of drivers, compared with 61.5% of cyclists, were recorded as driving properly. Moreover, of the 62.6% of bicyclists reported as not driving properly, about one third (26% of the total) were indicated as committing "other" errors, such as riding on the sidewalk or through a crosswalk. 36.0% of cyclists, compared with 36.5% of drivers involved in casualty collisions, were recorded as having committed a driving error specified on the collision report form, such as disobeying a traffic sign, failing to yield, etc. These statistics include children on bicycles: almost a quarter of cyclists involved in collisions were under 16 years of age.
|Severity of Collisions||2005||2006||2007||2008||2009||2010||TOTAL
|Property Damage Collisions||91||83||97||86||75||77||509|
|Total Number of Collisions||294||273||255||265||233||230||1,550|
|Total Casualties in
Collisions Involving Bicycles
|Severity of Collisions||2005||2006||2007||2008||2009||2010||TOTAL
|Property Damage Collisions||63||62||51||57||57||52||342|
|Total Number of Collisions||286||268||240||252||262||219||1,527|
|Total Casualties in Collisions Involving Bicycles||228||207||192||201||208||169||1,205|
* This refers to the total number of people killed and injured in collisions in which a bicycle was involved. It does not refer to only bicycle operators and passengers. However, only bicyclists were fatally injured.
(Source: Alberta Transportation, Office of Traffic Safety, April/August 2011)
The Alberta Bicycle Association Recreation and Transportation Committee has a very useful and detailed guide on what to do in case of an accident:
Briefly, the same rules apply to car/bicycle collisions as to any other collision. You should stop, call the police and/or EMS if necessary, and in any event exchange information as you would in a car collision.
Collisions have to be reported to the Calgary Police Department if anyone is injured, or if the total damage in the collision exceeds $2,000. It is the legal responsibility of the driver of the car to make a report, but cyclists are entitled to file a report as well -- and you should. Police will file the report if they attend the scene; otherwise you'll have to go to a district office.
If you or anyone else are injured, you should call the Police and EMS to the scene. Call 9-1-1 if anyone requires medical attention, or the Police Department non-emergency line if no medical attention is required (403-266-1234).
Alberta Finance has detailed information on what to do in case of a collision.
Always carry with you:
In Alberta, you are entitled to medical insurance coverage regardless of who is at fault for the collision. If you have been injured, see the relevant section of the "What to do in case of an automobile accident" page. If you only have minor injuries and EMS were not at the scene, you should see a physician as soon as possible to obtain documentation of your injuries.
Your immediate medical care will be covered by Alberta Health and/or your extended health plan, if you have one. You will be able to recover other medical expenses from the car insurance of the driver.
As a cyclist injured in a collision with a car, you have coverage for medical and death and disability expenses under the car insurance policy of the driver of the car (section B of the standard automobile insurance policy). Your own car insurance may also cover you, and it may be easier or more convenient to deal with your own insurance company. Talk to your insurance company immediately.
You have 10 days after the collision to file a Notice of Loss and Proof of Claim with the car insurance company for medical expenses for sprains, strains, or whiplash, and 30 days for other medical claims.
If you were involved in a hit-and-run accident or the driver was not insured, you may be able to recover your medical expenses from your own car insurance, if you have one, or through the Motor Vehicle Accident Claims (MVAC) programme.
Contact your home owner's or tenant insurance to see if you have coverage for liability or property damage.
It is a sad fact of cycling in Calgary that you may come in contact with drivers who do not respect your right to cycle on the road as part of traffic. If a driver endangers your safety, intentionally or unintentionally, you should report them to the Calgary Police Department. Such reports are logged, noted in the driver's file, and will be helpful if they are ever in an actual collision with a cyclist. To make a report (by calling the non-emergency line 403-266-1234) you will need:
If the situation is serious enough, e.g., if the driver gets out of their car and wants to fight or if they have a weapon, call 9-1-1.
Calgary has an extensive network of multi-user pathways (MUPs), which are reserved for pedestrians and cyclists, and on-street bikeways, which are streets designated as bike routes. Some bikeways are merely indicated by signs, some have wide curb lanes and bike sharrows, and some have painted bike lanes. The network of pathways and bikeways can be found in the City of Calgary's Pathways and Bikeways map. The map is available in several formats:
The City of Calgary Parks Department publishes a printed pathway and bikeway map, available for free at the City's Aquatic and Fitness Centres, at the City's two Leisure Centres (Southland in the SE, Village Square in the NE), as well as the map's sponsors
Bike Calgary usually also has maps available at info tables.
Other printed maps are available as well, both for Calgary and for the surrounding areas. Ask your local bike shop to see if they have some for sale.
The pathways and bikeways map can be downloaded as a (large) PDF file from the City of Calgary Parks website. The site also provides downloadable maps of specific areas, such as Downtown, Nose Hill, and Edworthy Park. An interactive map is also available.
Ride the City Calgary is the best cycing-specific routing website and application. It offers routing based on desired safety of the route, lets you save, print, and email routes, and rate routes and route segments to improve suggestions. It also comes with apps for both iPhone and Android. Both Ride the City and Bike Calgary volunteers take feedback on routes computed by Ride the City Calgary: instructions on how to improve Ride the City.
There are four apps for smarthpones:
Ride the City and the bike yyc iPhone app are based on bike path and lane data in Open Street Map, an open alternative to Google and other commercial map providers. It can be freely edited by users, much like Wikipedia. The map data from OSM is also used by OpenCycleMap.org. For route planning based on OSM, alternatives to Ride the City are are CloudMade or BBBike @ Calgary.
The data used for the City's interactive map is also shared with Google Maps, and Google Maps has a "bicycling" option that displays bike routes and pathways in green. Google Maps will also calculate directions for cycling. You should check the city's website in any case for closures and detours.
The City of Calgary Parks Department lists closed pathway and detours (with maps) on their Pathway Closures page.
Pathways and bikeways are often not the best way to get from point A to point B, or it takes trial and error to find the best route. Take advantage of other cyclists' experience by scanning or asking in the Bike Riding in Calgary forums. Check out Calgary cycling routes posted on Bikely.com or Mapmyride.com or map your own.
Questions or comments about maps? Post in the bikeway maps forum.
In 2010, 1,052 bicycles were reported stolen in Calgary. In 2011, that number rose 13% to 1,191, and in 2012 another 17% to 1,398. Many bike thefts go unreported, so the true number of bicycle thefts in Calgary is certainly quite a bit higher. The Calgary Police Department recovered 137 bicycles in 2012 as lost or stolen.
Information useful for reporting and recovering your bicycle which you should keep in a safe place, and have on hand when reporting a bike theft:
You may also consider registering your bike. Although Calgary Police does not check recovered bicycles against bikerevolution.ca as a matter of course, they may do so in the future, or your bike may end up in another jurisdiction where police do use that site. Calgary Police do use the Stolen Vehicle and Bicycle database of the Canadian Police Information Centre, though, both to record bikes reported stolen and to locate owners of recovered bicycles.
You should also contact your home owner's or tenant's insurance and inquire about an endorsement for your bicycle(s), if their replacement cost is high enough.
Fight bike theft by making it more difficult to steal bicycles. If you're going to leave your bike unattended for any period of time, even for just a minute, it should be locked. And if you don't want it stolen, it should be locked properly.
Comments? Questions? Post in the Stolen Bike forum.
Calgary Transit rents out bike lockers at selected C-Train stations. Racks are available at most C-Train stations
If you can't find a decent place to lock up your bicycle at your destination, consider contacting the city to request a bike rack.
Comments? Questions? Post in the Bike Parking forum
You're allowed to take your bike on the C-Train weekdays outside commute hours (6:30-9 am, and 3-6 pm), and all day weekends. Two bikes are allowed at either end of a car; do not use the center door of a train car. There is no fee to take your bike on the C-Train.
Some Calgary Transit buses are equipped with bike racks. Currently, routes with bus racks are:
Calgary Transit claims that all buses on these routes are equipped with bike racks, but that may not be true: they have admitted that up to one-third of the buses (on the worst day) may go out without a rack. (How many customers would they have if one-third of the C-Trains showed up with a sign saying "out of service"?).
Here's a video on how to work those bike racks, courtesy of Portland Transit.
(Note: Calgary Transit would like you to put the bike rack up when it's empty.)
The bike racks program will be reviewed in 2011 - if you use it, or you'd like bike racks on other routes, send feedback to Calgary Transit.
Bike lockers are available to rent at selected C-Train stations, for $72 per 6 months or $132 for a year.
As the temperature drops and the snow piles up, many fair-weather cyclists store their bikes for the season and choose to get around by either car or public transit. This happens to coincide with times when traffic congestion is at its worst due to poor road conditions. So don’t put your bike away! Escape the winter traffic jams and avoid waiting for the bus in the cold -- try out riding your bike in the winter. All it takes is overcoming the fear of cold temperatures and snow on the roads, and a little bit of preparation. If you winterize your bike to the point that you feel comfortable riding on snowy roads and pathways, and wear the appropriate attire, you will find that winter riding can be a very fulfilling experience. Even if you can’t bring yourself to ride in arctic temperatures, our chinooks still leave plenty of days in which your main challenge will be not to get too hot.
Here are some tips to get you started on riding year-round.
Layering is the name of the game in the winter. Dress in layers and record the temperature. Take a week or two writing down what you wore, how cold it was and how you felt. After monitoring that for a short time you will be able to wake up in the morning, check the temperature and weather forecast and dress accordingly. The choice of whether to buy cycling-specific clothing or just wear what you have is a matter of personal preference and depends a great deal on how concerned you are with aerodynamics or fashion, and also on when, where, and how far and how fast you ride. If you see your bike commute as your daily cardio workout or ride for more than 30 minutes, you probably want to spring for some winter-specific cycling wear; if you just ride a few kilometres and don’t usually go too fast, you can probably make do with your regular clothes. It’s also very handy to use general-purpose winter clothes like soft-shell skiing pants/jackets and long underwear over or under your “normal” clothes.
Wind-proof layers are important as the temperature drops. Jackets that allow you to vent them somehow are also good for those days when you’ve worn too much. Generally, you should be able to avoid sweating, at least around your core.
Down to -5°C, a pair of dress pants and long johns will keep you warm enough. If you don’t want to ride in your work clothes, a pair of water resistant cycling pants is a good option. Wool and polyester are great fabrics for all layers. Avoid cotton since it retains moisture and will make you feel clammy. A scarf (or winter cycling jacket with tight-fitting neck) is also nice to have and can make a big difference, especially is there is a breeze.
On really cold days (-15°C and below) you want no skin exposed. The wind created by riding is enough to make a short commute a very cold one on bare skin, which is usually in and around your face. Balaclavas are good for this and also cover your neck which may eliminate the need for a scarf. Instead of a balaclava, a neoprene face mask works as well. The holes in the nose and mouth area help reduce fogging from your breath coming inside and up into your goggles or glasses. There are mixed reactions on eyewear. Fogging is an issue, especially below -15°C. If you wear cycling glasses, clear lenses are suggested. If you feel more comfortable in goggles, then double lens goggles are recommended as they will help reduce the chances of fogging. There is no widely accepted single solution for the issue of glasses fogging up, but as a general rule the more you regulate your temperature the less fogging will occur.
This sounds like a lot to consider, but there aren’t many days when this is required… and those days are no easy feat on the bus or stuck in traffic either. For example in 2010, there were only 5 days with the High below -15 and 29 days where the Low was below -15. On the very cold days (-20°C and below) dress for battle and in layers, remembering that you don’t want to be sweating under your clothes as this will only make you colder when you are stopped at a light.
In the Fall, early Winter, and during a Chinook, any kind of glove on your hand will do. As the temperatures drop you will need to start wearing a real winter glove. Coldness will vary by individual, but in general below -5°C you will need a full-on winter glove to ride. It goes without saying that on the very cold days you should wear the warmest things possible and mitts are best in this situation. Lobster mitts are a popular choice for a little extra dexterity.
Alternatively, you can get a set of pogies that attach to your handlebars and over your brake and shift levers--you slide your already gloved hands in there. The benefit of pogies is that they allow you to avoid the need for bulkier winter gloves which some people find cumbersome, especially if you are concerned with being able to get your phone from your pocket or adjust your zipper.
Again, there is no special need to buy cycling specific gloves: regular gloves, or ski gloves/mitts work just as well. Use what you already have and assess your needs. Just remember that you want to keep the wind out of your hands, and that when it’s dark it’s good to have something reflective on your hands or arms so people can see you signalling.
Probably the one part of your body that is likely to get cold is your feet. Wind is the big culprit here. Solution: keep wind out of your shoes or boots. A simple plastic bag sometimes will do the trick. For the most part a good pair of leather boots and wool socks will keep you warm in the Fall and early Winter. (It’s best if the tongues are stitched in, as this helps to keep the wind out.)
Two pairs of thin socks are better than one pair of thick socks. Too thick of a sock in your shoes actually does more harm than good. If your feet are squeezed into your shoes, the blood flow will be constricted and you will get cold feet. During winter snow storms and very cold days, a real pair of winter boots is ideal…and as Canadians we should all have a pair of these in our house already. If you are considering buying new footwear specifically for cycling, get them one size larger than you would normally. This will help keep your feet from getting squished and allow you to wear thicker socks or multiple pairs of socks.
You can also look at replacing the insoles of your boots/shoes with a thicker insulating insole. Insoles like the ones made by HotFeet can make a noticeable difference in warmth. When it's really cold (or if your feet get cold easily), another option is to put a charcoal hand warmer in your shoe or boot. The handwarmers are smaller than the footwarmersand so are a little more comfortable. Make sure you put them outside your socks so you don't burn your skin.
If you ride with clipless pedals, a pair of neoprene overboots will help keep the wind out and may save you from having to buy a pair of winter cycling shoes. Make sure the toe spikes are in good shape; having worn, blunt spikes will not help you if you have to put your foot down suddenly. The best toe spikes, which should fit any cycling shoe, are the Sidi replacement spikess. They have a much sharper profile than regular ones. You may, however, want to swap out clipless pedals for a good solid pair of MTB downhill pedals in the heart of winter in order to keep your feet on the pedals but also be able to easily get them on the ground if the need arises.
Do you need a separate winter bike? As winter riding does wear down a bike at a quicker rate you may choose to ride a beater during the winter. Many winter commuters get a cheap used bike for this reason. The main drawback to this is that especially in the winter you want your gears and brakes to work properly, and unless you’re an experienced mechanic this might mean you’re better off with a solid new bike. Single speed bikes are popular as it requires less maintenance than a derailleur, and by riding on a high enough gear the amount of spin on the rear wheel is reduced when on ice. Internally-geared hubs are a good solution if you need gears to get up hills, but don’t want to worry bout your derailleurs freezing or getting worn down.
Winter is hard on the chain and cogs with a lot of gunk collecting on the drive train, especially when the temperature is near freezing. It is therefore important to clean your bike frequently, removing the salt and sand (hot water in a watering-can works well). You will also want to ensure that you oil your chain more frequently in the winter. For brakes, you might want to consider hydraulic disk brakes as they are less likely to ice up.
Especially if you are not using a beater bike in the winter, front and rear fenders are a great accessory to minimize the salt wear on your bike while also saving your back and shoes from the muck. Keep in mind that if you have fenders and are getting winter tires you will want to make sure that your tires can fit your fender. Also, snow can collect between your tire and fender so this is also something to take into account when deciding which fender to buy.
Good lighting is a must, since in the winter you will often be riding in the dark, and at a time when there are lots of cars on the road. There are two ways to think of bike lights: those that make you be seen and those that help you see. You likely won’t find that you need to use lights to see in the dark since street lights and pathway lights are very effective. If you want lights that act as headlights rather than identifiers then don’t go cheap. Do yourself a favour and spend money on a good set of lights. For the purpose of lighting to see the ground better choose a light that is at least 150-200 lumens -- this should be sufficient for most out-of-town rides. A 400+ lumen light will let you got fast down Big Hill at midnight.
Rear lighting is a little more straightforward and affordable. A simple seat post or rack mounted light, either solid or blinking, will do the trick. Don’t use the “turtle” lights except as emergency backup. There are good strobe-style lights for under $10. Having more than one rear light is a great idea, as they break, fall off or stop working.
Batteries die more quickly in the winter so always carry spares or choose a light that is easily rechargeable such as one that plugs into your USB port so you can be assured that you’ll have good strong light every day.
Whether to outfit your bike with studded tires (“studs”) is also something that comes down to personal preference. Some people have never needed to use them, others swear by them. Your comfort level on snow and ice will likely influence your decision, especially if it is your first season riding in winter conditions, as will the conditions of your commuting route. With the exception of days when it is actually snowing, many pathways and roads are generally clear of snow and ice within a day or two of snowfall, and you may hardly ever need studs. However, if your route takes you along neighborhood streets or uncleared pathways, you’ll face more icy conditions. Additionally, if there is snow lining our route a Chinook followed by a cold night will almost certainly mean black ice in spots.
Studded tires are expensive, and run between $60 and $85 or more each. If you choose to get only one, you want it to be on the front wheel. If your rear tire skids, you can usually get the bike under control easily, but if your front wheel slips out from under you, you’re almost guaranteed to go down. Many seasoned commuters think that two studded tires is the way to go. Reduce the tire pressure in the rear tire (to between 20-60 psi) when conditions are icy, as this maximizes the grip. If you’re planning on being an “occasional” winter rider, don’t get studded tires: just choose your alternate transportation method on the really icy days.
Studs are superior on ice, but in the case of Calgary, we are more likely to encounter packed snow than ice. Non-studded winter tires (a tire that looks like a winter tire for a vehicle) will perform well on snow and comes without the the noise and added friction of a studded tire. If you’re going to go with studs, err on the side of more studs, rather than too few (e.g., two rows instead of one). Carbide (rather than steel) will be more expensive but generally work a little better and last a little longer.
Ice does occasionally become a problem in the spring when warm days melt snow banks and ice sheets form across the pathways. The water freezes at night and turns into “black ice” in the morning. Be sure to note these wet spots on your ride home and use caution the next morning, especially if it is still dark on your ride in.
Unfortunately the best place to ride in the winter is right on the street. Cars are natural snowplows. The busier the street, the clearer it is. This is a double edged sword in that in order to ride on the clear path, you have to ride amongst the cars. If you are riding on the road do not compromise by trying to ride on the snow covered shoulder. Riding there can be very tricky and it is easy to lose your balance and veer into the lane you have left open for cars (or worse, crash). Instead, it is your right to take the lane, and you should. On heavy snow days you may have no other option but to use the sidewalk in places (legally, you are required to dismount on sidewalks, of course). Citizens are generally better at clearing snow from sidewalks before the city does the street -- side streets and many “designated bike ways” may never get cleared.
You should try to avoid roads where there hasn’t been a lot of traffic. Cars pack down the snow, but do so unevenly and often not well enough to support skinny tires. This makes it difficult to accelerate and to hold a straight line, and of course can be dangerous when there’s traffic. Also, on less travelled streets, a glaze tends to form after a few days. This can be very slick, but is usually obvious.
On the pathways, bikes will generally wear a line into the path if it hasn’t been cleared already. For the most part this is the best place to be, but if you feel uneasy riding there (or are the first out after a snowfall), un-tracked snow is usually not very tricky, it just requires more effort.
If you don’t want to use the ample outdoor bike racks within the city’s core because you are worried about winter wear or the possibilities that your bike may be stolen and your company does not offer bike storage, there are options to rent covered bike storage space. A standard rate for year round bike parking in the downtown is around $150. You can find more information on bike parking at http://bikecalgary.org/parking.
One big benefit of cycling in the winter, and something to always keep in mind, is that there is no rule against stopping at any given café, deli or watering hole to warm up. It is a very comforting feeling knowing that you can easily stop, get off your bike and open the foggy glass door to busy voices for a cup of hot tea, coffee, or merlot. Once you are sufficiently warmed up and satiated, you will be ready to continue your journey without complaint.
Be a boy scout and be prepared, leave earlier than normal, as well as plot a safe route away from busy streets and bus routes, this is for your protection and personal sanity.
Use a good rear flasher!! Invest some money in a bright front facing light. Keep your lights clean and carry extra batteries (the boy scout thing again).
Run lower than normal tire PSI in order to increase the tires' contact patch (don't forget a spare tube, and pump).
Lube your chain, keep braking surfaces clean.
Ride slower and less aggressive than you would in the summer, use fluid movements, brake earlier and softer than in the dry, keep the bike straight up and down when braking.
Focus on pedaling in soft and smooth even circles rather than short powerful strokes. When accelerating or climbing avoid putting excess weight on the front end of the bike, instead try to remain neutral.
Give pedestrians and cars more room, also remember that most pedestrians and drivers aren't looking for cyclists this time of year, so assume they don't see you.
Invest in some good thermal tights, booties, and gloves. Layering is key in cold weather. For instance, a thermal top (short sleeve), arm warmers, jersey, a thermal jersey, then a wind barrier on top.
Always ensure to carry a wind breaker, either a vest or a jacket. They are light and packable, and keeping the wind out is 80% of staying warm.
Don't forget the balaclava or thermal cap for under the helmet. Yes, a helmet.
If you see a fellow cyclist in peril stop and help, Karma pays back in bucket loads. It sucks to have a mechanical problem and have other commuters use you as a chicane. We're all in it together.
Finally visualize beaches surf and sun, and have fun. Smile and wave.
In deeper snow, gear down. It'll be harder going, anyway, so you'll be riding more slowly. And you need higher revs for a number of reasons. First off, if you're spinning fast, you're less likely to spin out due to lack of traction. Secondly, if you get turned a little sideways suddenly and have to stop pedalling for a second, you'll more likely to be able to continue at the slower resulting speed if you were already in a low gear.
In deeper snow, don't grip your handlebars too tightly. There's a tendency to try to want to rigidly maintain a direction, but this can be impossible. If your front wheel suddenly turns slightly, just keep pedalling and let it turn, then slowly bring it back. Chances are your bike will move straight ahead even if your front wheel is turned slightly, as it will just plow snow rather than bite in and turn your bike. This is easier to experience than to explain.
When climbing a hill in the snow, keep the revs up so you don't have to put a lot of slip-inducing power into each stroke. If you have cleated pedals or rat-traps, you can also try pulling up on each stroke in order to impart more thrust without the risk of slipping.
Don't lean your body at all for turns, because the instant your weight is not over the bike, it's likely to skid out from under you. Instead, stay upright, and turn your handlebars like a steering wheel. This is best practiced at low speed initially.
Recognise that with deeper snow, especially if you are riding in car tracks (with their layer of loose pancakes of snow atop an icy layer underneath), it can be impossible to maintain a straight line. You need to learn to read the surface and be able to tell when you are at risk of sudden divergences of direction. If you are riding on a road with cars, it's especially important to be able to maintain a line. If the conditions are becoming such that you can't do that, consider getting off the ruts and into virgin snow - while deeper and more drag-producing, it's also less likely to throw you off your line. In conditions with poor directional stability, it's very helpful to be riding with a helmet- or glasses-mounted rearview mirror so you can ride most of the time on bare-pavement ruts, but know when you need to get out of the way.
Sure we're all adults and are no longer supposed to ride on the sidewalk, but in inclement weather the sidewalks can often be more passable than the roads. When there's 10 cm or more of fresh snow, I'll often opt for riding on sidewalks in residential areas; I can make better time, and I'm also staying out of the way of motorised traffic.
A few days after a storm, most residential streets will have packed white snow, interspersed with big brown cow-patties of sugary, sandy snow; the hard surface is easy riding, but the patties are soft and tend to throw you off balance. Try to avoid them, or else build up speed and just coast through them without pedaling.
If the snow's quite deep, it can be really hard going. Dress more lightly than you would otherwise, at least on your torso - you're going to be working hard and getting warm.
If you are going downhill in a straight line, you can usually use both brakes equally, but be ready to let off the front brake the instant you feel any slippage. When in doubt, use less front brake. And if you have to turn at all, even a few degrees, limit yourself to use solely of the rear brake.
If you can't limit your speed sufficiently using only your rear brake, and it's too icy to use the front brake, slip down onto the top tube of your bike and put one foot down on the ground as an outrigger. You'll be able to stay upright even if your bike slides and turns ninety degrees off the course-line.
If it's simply snowy, studded tires won't help, but knobbies will. But as it starts to get icy, studded tires can be very helpful. If you can't afford two, at least put one on your front wheel since front-wheel slippage is often disastrous while rear-wheel slippage is only an inconvenience. And on bare pavement, especially concrete, studded tires can actually be a menace. There's nothing more dangerous than studded tires on a wet concrete parkade -- trust me on this.
There are differing opinions on the best width of tire to use in the snow. Some argue for wider tires to give more surface area for gription, but wider tires also have to push or squish more snow. Narrow tires have less surface area to grab on with, but they may be better at cutting through deep snow and getting down to a hard enough surface to ride on.
The attached PowerPoint presentation and outline has been used by Bike Calgary instructurs successfully for delivering winter riding workshops. Note that it may raise more questions than it answers: if you're not an instructor use these as suggestions for research. Feel free to post in the winter riding forum for tips from experienced riders. If you are an instructor, you're welcome to use these materials in your course: just be nice and credit Bike Calgary. Thanks.
B & P Cycle & Sports SE
sales and service — used bikes: yes
mountain, kids, BMX, cruisers, hybrids, comfort, commuter, unicycles, adult trikes, industrial
1717 52 St SE, Calgary, AB, T2A1V1
Bent Knee Bike Repair SW
service only — call for appointment
335 Brookmere Rd SW, Calgary, AB T2W 2P4
The Bicycle Cafe Canmore
sales and service — used bikes: yes
mountain, road, and commuter bikes
630 Main St, Canmore, AB, T1W2B5
BikeBike City Centre
sales, service, rental — used bikes: sometimes
commuter, European, cargo, folding, touring
A-1501 17 Ave SW, Calgary, AB, T2T0E2
Bike Bros Cochrane
sales and service — service by appointment
mountain, road, commuter, comfort, cyclocross, 29ers, kids, bmx
122 - 4 Ave W, Cochrane, AB, T4C1A9
Bike Root NW
service only — maintenance classes: yes — DIY maintenance shop
2248 Uxbridge Rd NW
The Bike Shop City Centre
sales and service
801 11 Ave SW, Calgary, AB, T2R0E6
BMX Gallery: 4130 City Centre
sales and service — maintenance classes: yes
100, 1604 10 Ave SW, Calgary, AB T3C0J5
Bow Cycle NW
sales and service — used bikes: few — maintenance classes: yes — rent high-end wheels, powertap wheels, and travelling cases
mountain, road, cyclocross, city, hybrid, kids, tandems, folding, bmx, cruisers, adult tricycle
6501 Bowness Rd NW, Calgary, AB, T3B0E8
Cactus Bike & Ski SW
sales and service — used bikes: sometimes
kids, tandems, folding, bmx, cruisers, adult tricycle
9827 Horton Rd SW, Calgary, AB, T2V2X5
Cal's Cycle Linden
sales, service, rental — used bikes: yes — hours vary, please call ahead
251032B Township Rd 30-4, Linden, AB, T0M1J0
403-546-4007, toll-free: 1-888-546-4017
Calgary Cycle NE
sales and service
high-end mountain bikes
1414 Centre St NE, Calgary, AB, T2E2R9
Campione Cycles City Centre
sales and service — service first come first served, no appointments
road, track, cross
908 12 Ave SW, Calgary, AB, T2R0J4
Continental Tandems City Centre
sales — used bikes: sometimes — tandem test ride centre
sales and service
507 – 3 Stonegate Dr NW, Airdrie, AB, T4B0N2
sales and service — maintenance classes: yes
mountain, road, bmx, hybrid, dual sport, commuter, cruisers, kids
9176 MacLeod Trail SE, Calgary, AB, T2J0P5
Eurotech Cycle NW
sales and service — service appointments available
road, cyclocross, hybrid, mountain
789 Northmount Dr NW, Calgary, AB, T2L0A1
The Good Life Kensington
sales — used bikes: yes — maintenance classes: yes — DIY maintenance shop
148 10 St NW, Calgary, AB T2N1V5
Joe's Garage Mobile Bike Repair City Centre
service only — service first come first served but call ahead
Bow River Pathway @ 8 St SW
service only — call or email for appointment
service and sales of parts and accessories
240, 31 Ave NW, Calgary AB, T2M2P2
sales and service
29er, road, mountain, commuter, kids
1110 Gladstone Rd NW, Calgary, AB, T2N3E7
Mission Snow Skate & BMX City Centre
sales and service
616 17 Ave SW, Calgary, AB, T2S0B4
Mission Snow Skate & BMX City Centre
sales and service
1414 Kensington Rd. N.W.
Mountain Bike City Ski & Sports SW
sales and service
2707 17 Ave SW, Calgary, AB, T3E0A6
Mountain Equipment Co-op City Centre
sales and service — maintenance classes: yes — riding classes coming soon
road, mountain, commuter, kids
830 10th Ave SW, Calgary, AB, T2R 0A9
Outlaw Sports SW
sales and service
903 Heritage Dr SW, Calgary, AB, T2V2W8
Pedalhead Bicycle Works SE
sales and service
mountain, road, commuter, comfort, kids, bmx
202 - 12100 MacLeod Trail SE, Calgary, AB, T2J7G9
Power in Motion City Centre
sales and service — unique accessories such as heated vests and gloves, hi-power head light, laser tail light
urban commuter, electric, folding, and cargo bikes, electric bike conversion
Eau Claire Market, 176 - 200 Barclay Parade SW, Calgary, AB, T2P 4R5
Pure Cycle SW
sales and service — maintenance classes: yes — hi-power head light, laser tail light, add-on light rope, PowerMeter
all types of bikes
3133 – 150 Millrise Blvd SW, Calgary, AB, T2Y5G7
Ridley's Cycle Kensington
sales and service — maintenance classes: yes — service by appointment, see website for hours
road, mountain, cross, urban, commuter, kids, triathlon
223 10 St NW, Calgary, AB, T2N1V5
Sona-Tech Bicycles SE
service only — mobile repair services; SE Calgary only
Speed Theory City Centre
sales, service, rental — maintenance classes: yes — rent road bikes, race wheels, wet suits, travel cases
road and triathlon bikes
735A 10 Ave SW, Calgary, AB, T2R0B3
Sports Rent NW
service and rental
road and mountain
4424 16 Ave NW Calgary, AB, T2N0M4
Sports Traders NW
sales and service — used bikes: yes — accepts trade-ins
all types except new road bikes
39 Crowfoot Terr NW, Calgary, AB, T3G4J8
Tuxedo Source for Sports NE
sales and service
mountain bikes, hybrid bikes, kids bikes, BMX
2520 Centre St N, Calgary, AB, T2E2V2
University of Calgary Outdoor Centre NW
service and rental — used bikes: few — maintenance classes: yes
mountain, road, cyclocross
B-180 Kinesiology Bldg, 2500 University Dr NW, Calgary, AB, T2N1N4
Vitasport Cycles Ltd NW
sales and service
3007 Centre St NW, Calgary, AB, T2E2X2
Zero Tread NW
sales and service
This obviously needs work. Please suggest additions and changes in comments!